The Complicated History of Wristwatches

Wristwatches have come a long way to become the beloved art form and status symbol that they are today. While varying methods of telling time (sundials, water clocks, hourglasses) have been around for centuries, the development of the wristwatch has been fairly recent. Older clocks were used for navigational purposes or indicating prayer times.

Nuremberg, Germany Egg Watch
Nuremberg, Germany Egg Watch

The technology that started paving the way for portable timepieces was the invention of the mainspring, a tightly wound spring that serves as the power source in mechanical timepieces, back in 15th century Europe. Watches transitioned into wearable pieces in 16th century Germany when they were made to be fastened to clothing or worn on a chain as a necklace. But as these watches were a middle size between clocks and the watches we know today, we imagine that their large size gave more of an albatross around the neck effect. These timepieces were also notoriously inaccurate.
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Cosimo de' Medici
Cosimo de’ Medici with Pocket Watch

The development of waistcoats in the 17th century led men to start keeping these portable timepieces in pockets, but women’s watches remained nothing more than necklaces until the 19th century. Up until this point watches didn’t have minute hands, but they start appearing on watch dials in the later part of the 17th century. The following century sees massive developments in watch technology with the addition watch complications as well as the balance spring, chronometers, the escapement, and many more.
patek philippe watch
First Wristwatch Made for Countess Koscowicz by Patek Philippe

It’s not until 1868 when Patek Philippe puts all of the parts together and makes the first watch to be worn on the wrist. Called “wristlets” these watches did not make as big of a splash as Philippe probably hoped. Most men seeing these watches as feminine, would rather be caught dead than wearing a wristwatch.
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Louis Cartier designs a distinctly masculine wristwatch in 1904, but wristwatches don’t become a significant favorite among men until World War I in 1914. It was far more convenient to check your wrist for the time in the trenches rather than dig out a pocket watch. Also, the design of the watch became standardized which led to advances in materials and production methods.
wartime watches
After that developments quickly snowballed and timepieces became the watches that we know and love today.
Established in 1912, the King family has owned and operated King Jewelers for five generations while building an outstanding reputation steeped in quality, value, and first-class service. Today, King Jewelers has brick-and-mortar stores located in Aventura, FL and Nashville, TN, both of which have won numerous regional and national awards of distinction. Offering a magnificent selection of fine jewelry collections including the hottest Italian designs, estate jewelry, colored gemstones and fancy-colored diamonds, as well as luxury European timepieces, King Jewelers prides itself in being one step ahead of the trend. In addition, King Jewelers offers on-site jewelry and watch repairs, custom design services, appraisals, estate buying, and corporate gift programs. For more information, visit www.kings1912.com.

Breguet acquires impressive documents regarding the history of watchmaking

BreguetThe memoirs of watchmaker A.-L. Breguet, timeless pieces of watchmaking history, were auctioned on May 7th for a record sum of 2.3 million Swiss francs to Nicolas G. Hayek, President and CEO of Montres Breguet, just before his unexpected death in late June.
Breguet’s unfinished memoirs disappeared after he passed away in 1823 . In early 2010, some of the nearly completed works were discovered. Seven manuscripts were in this collection, including:
1. The history of Breguet and his philosophy
2. One-hand watches and new repeater
3. Souscription watches and repeater mechanism
4. Perpétuelle watches and their repeaters
5. Equation of time, calendars and tourbillons
6. Marine horology
7. Marine chronometers, longitude watches, Breguet balance-spring
Many specialists consider this to be the most significant body of testimony in the entire history of watchmaking: an account of his career as well as a methodical review of his inventions. The auction process for these priceless documents was chaotic, with each manuscript going for four times its initial estimate, until the entire group of documents was regrouped into one lot and finally sold to the Breguet Museum after an intense competition among various institutions and private collectors. This collection, which may in due course be published, has regained its rightful place within the brand’s stunningly rich heritage.
Breguet timepieces will be available at King Jewelers this Fall in Aventura, FL and late 2010 in Nashville, TN. For more information, please visit http://www.breguet.com and http://www.kings1912.com.
Established in 1912, King Jewelers has proudly styled jewelry and timepiece aficionados from around the world. A pioneer among independent couture jewelers, King Jewelers has built an outstanding reputation steeped in quality, value and first-class customer service. King Jewelers features exclusive jewelry designers, offers in-house custom designs, private label jewelry collections, and is an authorized dealer for over forty luxury Swiss watch brands including Alpina, Bell & Ross, Bulgari, Breitling, Cartier.com/”>Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Concord, Dunhill, Ebel, Harry Winston, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Montblanc, Roger Dubuis, Swiss Army, TAG Heuer, and TechnoMarine. With two store locations in Aventura, FL and Nashville, TN, King Jewelers has won numerous awards as the Southeast’s top jewelry store and diamond wholesaler. King Jewelers has GIA Certified Gemologists and offers expert jewelry and watch repairs. King Jewelers is a member of the Jewelers of America, American Watch Guild, and the American Society of Appraisers.

BNB Concept is Dead!!! – The Rise and Fall of the Luxury Watch Movement-Maker

BNB Concept Watch-Makers
BNB Concept Watch-Makers

As a watch and art collector, I have a personal interest in design, history, and innovative progress. Over the last decade during the modern watch renaissance, my passion for luxury Swiss timepieces has matured as I found myself gravitating towards fine and unique boutique watchmakers and brands that fused modern technology with the historical precision of Geneva watchmaking. My personal favorite team was BNB Concept, which was founded in 2004 and launched with the support of DeWitt Watches” href=”http://www.DeWitt.ch” target=”_blank”>Jerome DeWitt of DeWitt watches.
BNB became an industry phenom overnight with their innovative and extreme designs, concepts, and creations. Starting with the award winning DeWitt Differential Tourbillon, the BNB team were the immediate rock stars of the 21st century watch world. The company worked with over 30 companies which included Hublot, Concord, Bell & Ross, Franc Vila, and Jorg Hysek, just to name a few. Concord watches” href=”http://www.kings1912.com/timepieces.cfm” target=”_blank”>My favorite BNB creation was Concord’s C1 QuantumGravity!
Yet at Geneva’s SIHH 2010 show this past January, BNB Concept announced that they were going out of business. The company reportedly failed due to heavy debt and an account receivables believed to have been in excess of $10 milllion. To many, the death of the BNB Concept demonstrated the impact of the global financial crisis on luxury manufactures of the niche and boutique arenas.
However, the brilliance and experience of BNB Concept will forever remain in the heart of watch enthusiasts and should inspire a new generation of innovation. This innovation will require sufficient funding as verticalization and acquisitions by major brands will dominate the industry clean-up process over the next five years. According to industry sources, Hublot’s CEO Jean-Claude Biver plans to purchases BNB Concept’s watchmaking machinery and plans to hire at least 30 of BNB’s watchmakers, seven of which belong to the Confrerie. They will work under the new rubric “Confrerie Hublot” that will manufacture Hublot timepieces to sell for more than $250,000.
While the “Confrerie Hublot” watches will eventually be available exclusively at King Jewelers in Nashville, we will all sorely miss the innovative genius and hyberbolic exploration in which BNB Concept amazed our watch industry with year in and year out. I can say that it was an extreme rush when all BNB creations were released at Baselworld each year and it was an honor to have carried and sold numerous BNB watches over the years.
 About David King, King Jewelers
David King is the owner of King Jewelers Nashville who has a passion for watches and writing. A graduate of the University of Pennsylvania with degrees in English and Chemistry, David and his brother Jono King are the fifth generation to own and operate King Jewelers.

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